Blogpost Kilimanjaro ENGLISH version

Kilimanjaro: a 7-day hike without training?

I, Lore, choose to explore the 7-day Machame route under the flag of Running Wild Travels. What is it really like to hike day after day through rugged nature, climbing higher and higher on this iconic mountain: the highest peak on the African continent? Let’s take a walk on the wild side and join me on this journey, day by day:

Preparation

It’s the day before the climb. My guide Abdi pays me a visit and checks whether I have the right gear. He inspects the contents of my trekking backpack and daypack. He recommends purchasing rain pants, which later will turn out to be very useful. The large trekking backpack with all my gear will be carried by a professional porter, while I will carry my daypack with 3 liters of water, snacks, camera, and rain jacket.

We discuss my hiking pace and previous mountain climbing experiences. I warn Abdi that I am a slow walker and that I haven’t trained at all. But my mindset is ready, and I’m determined to make the climb all the way up. Abdi says it’s always much better to train before attempting to climb the mountain, but he has faith in me, as well as in his professional guidance to guide me to the top. He will also perform daily health check-ups on the whole team, such as blood pressure and oxygen saturation measurements, and monitor any physical complaints to ensure everyone’s safety.

I spend the night in accommodation in Arusha. Arusha is located on a higher altitude than Moshi, which is good for acclimatization.

Day 1: Start in the green rainforest

Upon waking up, I am nervous but excited. The team picks me up, and we drive to the Machame Gate, where we start at an altitude of 1800 meters. We finally depart at 11:30 AM, and after a slow, steady climb, we arrive at the first camp around 5:00 PM (11 km hike).

The first day goes surprisingly well. The Machame route begins gently, and I feel mentally and physically prepared. In Belgium, this climb would be tough, but here the pace is slow. Pole Pole is the motto on the mountain, which means ‘slowly’ in Swahili.

My guide Abdi plays a major role in the success of this climb. He takes my slow pace into account and ensures that we build up slowly on the first day. We begin in the lush rainforest, which is pleasant because the trees provide shade from the sun. Along the way, we get some rain, but I actually find it refreshing, especially since the beginning of the climb is quite warm. As we ascend, it gets cooler. At each short stop, I notice how the cold gradually starts to seep in, but as long as I keep walking, I’m comfortable in my light shirt and hiking pants.

It’s important to drink enough water to prevent altitude sickness. The guide recommends drinking between 2 and 3 liters per day, but I find it difficult to drink such large amounts.

Along the way, we spot some animals, including a cute, fluffy, black creature hiding in the tree hollow at our picnic spot. It has a long tail and big, dark eyes that clearly show it’s a nocturnal animal. It turns out to be a palm civet – very unique and difficult to spot! After a hearty lunch of potatoes, chicken, vegetables, fruit, and a muffin, we continue our hike. We’re passed by two other solo travelers (a German and a Mexican). My guide emphasizes that we should take it slow because we still have six days ahead of us. If this had been a one-day hike, I would have certainly walked faster, but now it’s important to pace ourselves properly.

After a few hours, we notice a change in the vegetation. The trees become shorter, and the landscape transforms into moorland: the grass fields dry out, and the vegetation shifts from vibrant green to withered trees. This change gives me new energy, especially as the climb becomes physically harder.

Upon arriving at Machame Camp (2835m), I sit outside my tent to watch the sunset. The surroundings and the mountain top are still covered in clouds, but as the evening falls, something magical happens. The bright white moonlight illuminates the mountains and even makes the snow on the peaks visible. It’s a breathtaking sight: in the darkness of the night, the moonlight continues to embrace the mountains with a mystical glow.

The dinner is plentiful: butternut soup, spaghetti, potatoes, vegetables, and a salad with delicious fresh avocado. I eat until I’m full and fall asleep satisfied.

Day 2: View on Mount Meru

The morning starts early, and we are first to leave the camp at 07:20 AM. The steady pace allows me to keep walking without many breaks. Despite the early start and the short distance (5 km), the first few hours are intense due to the non-stop steep climb. The last part becomes more flat.

The hike itself is once again beautiful. During the climb, I see various birds and special flowers. Suddenly, the guide tells me to look behind me, and I see that the trees around me have disappeared. We’re at a viewpoint with a panoramic view of Mount Meru. The view over the lower forest and Mount Meru is stunning. The clear view gives me the energy to continue.

Later, the landscape changes again. It reminds me of the world of the Lord of the Rings: rock formations, dark green bushes, and rugged, untouched terrain. It’s impressive, almost magical.

I drink more water than yesterday while hiking in order to reduce the risk of altitude sickness. The rest of the day is misty and cold, and I notice the temperature dropping significantly. Towards the end of the hike, I feel a slight headache, but it quickly disappears after about 20 minutes.

At 1:00 PM, I reach Shira Cave Camp at an altitude of 3750 meters. Upon arrival, I am given tea while my tent is set up in the cool, misty surroundings. Suddenly, I feel chilled from the cold. Once my tent is ready, I put on three extra sweaters and something on my head to stay warm. The headache briefly returns, so I rest in the tent.

We have a good lunch: pasta with chicken and vegetables. Afterwards, it’s time to relax some more. Due to the misty weather conditions, we decide not to go to the viewpoint. Only the tents and large ravens hanging around are visible in the misty environment.

At dinner, we discuss the plan for the next day. I get into bed early (or rather, my mattress and sleeping bag) so I can wake up fresh to continue the journey the next morning.

Day 3: Lava Tower Camp and altitude sickness

One of the porters wakes me up at 6:00 AM and hands me coffee to gently wake up. Breakfast is at 7:00 AM. It rained heavily overnight, but now the sun is shining. In the warm rays of the sun, I walk around the camp and am amazed by the breathtaking surroundings. The mist has cleared, and I can see as far as the eye can reach. Now it’s much more apparent that I’m at a very high altitude.

I look down at the green forests below that we left behind on day 1. On the side of the green vegetation, I see Mount Meru towering above another layer of clouds. Further ahead, there are only clouds and moorland. I turn around and see rocky mountains. It’s dry, the ground is vast with small trees, and the sun shines brightly. When I turn further to the left, I see the icy summit of Kilimanjaro, much closer and more detailed than I had imagined! I didn’t expect there to be so much snow.

Around 7:30 AM, we begin the hike with positive energy. Today we will cover 10 kilometers. The walk starts smoothly with a gentle incline. Suddenly, it feels as though a cloud is following us from Mount Meru. The cloud cover surrounds us, and we feel the light rain surrounding us. We put on our rain gear: rain pants, gaiters around the shoes, and a protective cover for the backpack. We continue walking in the rain, and after a while, it dries up a bit.

I walk without breaks, but then the headache comes. I report the severe, quickly developing headache to Abdi. He recommends sitting down for a moment and eating something with sugar. I eat a KitKat, and within five minutes, the headache disappears. Thankfully, I can continue walking. The walking poles come in handy in the rocky terrain.

After a few hours, we reach Lava Tower Camp at 4600 meters. Suddenly, the last ten meters become too much. My stomach turns, and a sharp pain shoots through my head. This is clearly altitude sickness. I sit down on the rock beside me; I can’t move another step. I’m the unlucky one on this peak because the other climbers all seem to feel fine. Altitude sickness is unpredictable and can affect anyone. Sometimes climbers experience altitude sickness on day 2, which passes, and they are able to continue up without further problems. I feel like I have to end the trek here, and my Kilimanjaro adventure will be over. The guide suggests I stay calm, eat, and drink something. Although I have no appetite, I trust his expertise and eat a pancake and drink tea. After 15 minutes, I suddenly feel better. The tears stop, and I can finally appreciate the view.

The stone tower known as Lava Tower looms above us and is impressive. The view down is deep and rocky. The altitude sickness quickly subsides, and I feel relieved. Now I have energy again and am proud to be at the highest point I have ever reached in my life: 4600 meters! I get tears in my eyes again, but this time from emotion and pride. I realize this is already a bucket-list moment, and I feel very emotional. It’s a special feeling to realize that this is the highest point I have ever reached, and that I (besides the climb in the coming days) will never stand at such an altitude again.

We descend to Barranco Camp. The guide moves quickly downhill to escape the rain and relieve my altitude sickness. We are suddenly surrounded by unique plants and trees typical of the mountain, found only at this altitude: giant lobelias and Dendrosenecio kilimanjari (photo). We arrive at Barranco Camp at 3900 meters, shrouded in mist. My body can recover at a lower altitude, and the rest is welcome. By late evening, I already feel much better.

Day 4: Climb on the Barranco Wall

I step out of my tent and see that the mist and clouds have disappeared. The mountain slope of the famous Barranco Wall surrounds us. The fog that surrounded the mountains yesterday is nowhere to be seen. The sky is clear, and the sun shines brightly. The peak of the giant Kilimanjaro stands out sharply against the sky, covered in snow that sparkles in the morning light. While I have breakfast, I look at the summit and the steep, dark brown mountain slope that we will be climbing today.

After hearing about my reduced appetite, the chef immediately arrives with fresh lime tea with honey. I drink the tea, and almost instantly, I feel the fatigue leave my body. The energy returns, just in time to continue. We take a few more photos of the surroundings and then continue our journey with energy at 7:30 AM.

The first few hours go smoothly; the paths are picturesque, with small rivers that we cross carefully. We are still in the moorland vegetation zone. In the distance, there is a lower area, surrounded by rocky cliffs. The mountains are a palette of green and brown, with the icy summit of Kilimanjaro seeming to come closer. We reach the steep Barranco Wall, which poses a physical challenge. The rocky path is sometimes so steep that I have to lift myself up the rocks using my hands.

I’m glad that I had some experience with wall climbing sport as a child: the climbing now feels like a familiar movement. It really makes a difference when you are able to quickly get a good grip and feel comfortable on the rocky surface, especially when you have a fear of heights or altitude sickness.

The rest of the day, I walk in silence, my thoughts consumed by the surroundings that constantly remind me of the movie The Lord of the Rings. We pass through an area where the vegetation changes, and the dry trees remind me of the movie scenes where Sméagol moves through the misty environment among the dead trees. It almost feels like I am part of that other world. The hike becomes steeper, and I move forward slowly. After five hours of hiking, we reach the camp around 12:30 PM. The last hour is particularly tough due to the nausea and stomach pain that suddenly hit me. Sometimes, a piece of chocolate helps to boost my energy and alleviate the symptoms so I can continue.

We arrive at Karanga Camp at 3992 meters in the alpine desert vegetation zone. Fortunately, there is some internet here, so I receive encouraging messages from family and friends. They are amazed that I’ve already reached the fourth camp, especially since I was sick just a week before the expedition. I feel proud that I’ve made it this far, especially since my body is still able to keep going. I am concerned about the altitude sickness, though. It could get worse or disappear completely on its own. If the symptoms persist, I’ll have to go back down. So far, the symptoms have luckily disappeared quickly after eating, drinking, or resting. The guide continuously checks on my symptoms, and my blood pressure and oxygen levels are good.

The Mexican who started on the same day as me continues to Barafu Camp today. He feels fit, so he climbs on without any problems. This ‘extra night’ in Karanga is important for my acclimatization.

Day 5: Snow and an icy top within reach

The morning is once again surprisingly clear and sunny. The snowy peak now looks so close that I feel like I could reach it in just 2 hours of walking. Of course, it’s not that easy. With renewed energy, the trek to the final camp, Barafu Camp, begins. We are still in the alpine desert zone, and the cold surrounds us. Occasionally, we see snow, which later disappears with the sun. Physically, I feel good, but the thin air makes it harder. I follow the footsteps of guide Abdi to stay in a good rhythm.

Upon arrival at Barafu Camp at 4673 meters, I feel the fatigue and nausea. The stomach pain is unbearable, and I am exhausted. I go to rest, but the altitude sickness doesn’t seem to disappear quickly this time. It begins to snow heavily, and when I step outside, the surroundings are covered in a white blanket, making the view unique. It’s strange to think that thousands of meters below, the sun is probably warming the city while I am surrounded by a thick layer of snow.

After several unsuccessful attempts to eat, I give up. Nausea makes eating impossible. Abdi and the chef politely insist I try something anyway. Eventually, I manage to get the delicious soup down. Not enough fuel for the final climb, but it’s something.

Meanwhile, it has gotten dark, and the snow falls slowly outside the tent. We decide that I will rest, and we’ll reassess my condition through the night. Descending is not an option in the dark. I notice that Abdi hasn’t given me the briefing for the next day. Despite my extreme exhaustion, sleep does not come easily.

Day 6: A magical sunrise

Around three o’clock, I am woken up by guide Abdi. I still feel terribly sick, so we decide that it’s better for my health not to continue the climb to the summit. We decide to descend as soon as the sun rises. Normally, I would make the final climb to Stella Point (5735m) and witness the sunrise, followed by the 2-hour walk to Uhuru Peak (5896m). After this climb, the descent to Mweka Camp would follow, where we would have spent the night. But for me, the morning begins in the snowy Barafu Camp. The orange glow of the magical sunrise spreading over the mountain peaks offers an unparalleled warmth amidst the icy surroundings. The view of Mawenzi Peak, which was hidden last night, is now breathtaking. Here, at this extreme altitude, I look over ‘the roof of Africa.’ Black ravens circle the sky, while the moon sits like a silver disc in the clear sky above the icy Uhuru Peak.

We begin the descent from Barafu Camp. The descent is steep and fast, but my trekking poles help me a lot. I can imagine that experienced hikers have an advantage here, knowing where to place their poles and feet on the loose rocks on the steep path down. Every step brings me closer to recovering from altitude sickness, which is gradually easing. Around noon, we reach Mweka Camp at 3800 meters. I ask if we can continue descending, and with the energy returning, we decide to make the full descent in one day. After a delicious lunch prepared by the chef, including my favorite vegetable soup that he specially made for me, we begin the rest of the descent. Without further breaks, we reach Mweka Gate (1650m) around 4:00 PM, a huge relief. I now know that I will have a normal night, away from the exhausting altitude.

Reflection

After a peaceful night, I can truly reflect. Although I didn’t reach the summit, I am proud of what I have accomplished. I completed the first six days as planned and reached the last camp, at the foot of the summit. If it hadn’t been for the altitude sickness, I would have made it to the top. Despite my non-training!

The beauty of nature and the views I experienced are unique and indescribable. The heights I reached are almost unimaginable, and all of this without any physical preparation. Kind of crazy. Was it easy to climb Mount Kilimanjaro without training? Let me answer it this way: it’s possible, but I would highly recommend that everyone does some serious hikes or walks beforehand, especially to strengthen the calf muscles and get accustomed to adventurous trails. Otherwise, like me, after the climb you might barely be able to walk for several days. A strong mindset and positive attitude are a must. My perseverance and stubbornness went beyond my physical fitness. And in the end, there I was, on the ‘Roof of Africa,’ on one of the ‘Seven Summits of the World,’ on the majestic and elusive mountain of Tanzania!

Conclusion

The climb of Mount Kilimanjaro is a beautiful, unique experience, and despite the hardships here and there, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that is definitely worth it!

– Kilimanjaro blog written by Director of Running Wild Travels, Lore Ceyssens

Click here to see the Kilimanjaro trip with prices!

Practical details & tips

• Renting climbing material

Take all the recommended gear from the essentials list with you. Everything can make the journey much more enjoyable: a camelbag, rain gear, and other equipment that I didn’t think I would need, turned out to be extremely necessary. Most of it I bought myself or borrowed from family members. Other items I rented: trekking poles, rain pants, gaiters, sleeping mat, and sleeping bag (with my own liner). The rental gear is of good quality.

• Day backpack

Take as little as possible in your day backpack. Drink plenty of water from the start of the day (this lightens your backpack). A useful tip is to use a backpack with a waist and chest strap to distribute the weight properly. Practice at home by filling your backpack with 3 liters of water and taking a brisk walk with your hiking shoes and socks.

• Clothing

As soon as the sun is out, I apply sunscreen. I walk in a T-shirt and a light blouse, which I can zip up for temperature control. As soon as the sun sets, I put on my lightweight fleece vest. Good quality socks are essential, along with a double pair of warm socks for the last night. Proper rain gear is crucial during the rainy season.

• Different routes and season

I climb in November (rainy season) and I’m almost the only one starting; it’s clearly off-season. There are few tents at the campsites, and there’s never any ’traffic’ on the mountain. The rain doesn’t cause too much of an issue, despite it being the short rainy season (November). However, it is always misty when I arrive at the camps, although it clears up each morning. The rain mostly falls at night. The trails are slipperier than usual, which sometimes slows down the pace and requires more concentration. The Machame route is beautiful and not too crowded outside of peak season. My second choice was the Lemosho route. Both routes are better suited for acclimatization.

Click here to see the Kilimanjaro trip with prices.